Bariloche is not close to Buenos Aires. This simple fact becomes abundantly clear after nineteen hours in a bus. It should not be supposed that these hours are uncomfortable, or particularly boring: the long haul buses all seem to be well appointed, with the seats tilting well back, and comfortably upholstered. The views are also rather interesting for the uninitiated. The journey started in the evening, and by the time there was light, we were in the Patagonian plains. The vegetation there is hardy dry stuff (much like the karoo), and extremely wind resistant. This might not at first be clear, for, if one were just to look at the vegetation one would suppose there to be hardly a breeze blowing. However, on passing a large body of water, or some foreign vegetation, it becomes rather obvious that Patagonia is beset by constant gales.
One might wonder why I mentioned large bodies of water - Patagonia, is, after all, supposed to be arid. The reason is quite simple: notwithstanding the generally dry surroundings, there are a surprising number of large lakes, these being fed by the distant Andean snowmelt. This abundance of lakes allows irrigation to be employed to turn the arid plains into farming marvels: fields are surrounded by tall poplars bent double, shading the many fruit trees from the strong wind. The fruit is much like cape fruit: apples, pears, peaches, necterines, &c &c. However, it appears the farmers have constant struggles against the wind. The small towns all blow with dust, and people walking along all appear to have an odd idea as to what ninety degrees to the horizontal is.
As one drives closer to the Andes, one gradually has some relief to the monotony of the planes. Coinciding with the appearance of arid hills one sees a sudden appearance of a large, and surprising, diversity of raptors. If one is lucky (I was), one might also spot the odd wild llama.
The hills slowly turn to mountains, but all remains dry. The mountains gain altitude, until one sees the odd snow cap. It is then that a remarkable change occurs. It seems that one turns a corner, and suddenly all is green. One has arrived in Bariloche. The change is startling: Bariloche sits at the edge of a large lake (Nahuel Huapi) surrounded by beautiful mountains and forests. Its situation could not be more perfect.
I did not stay in Bariloche, however. Instead, I chose a hostel 15 km out of town, on the border of another lake. The view from the hostel is breathtaking.
I arrived in the late afternoon, and decided to take a walk around the lake. The entire way I was greeted with beautiful vistas, and the bracing weather really encouraged physical exertion.
I enjoyed a good meal that evening at the hostel. The atmosphere was rather convivial, and I soon got chatting with two girls, Nancy and Denise, who planned to go to El Bolson the following day. I decided to join them.